-I've been traveling the length and breadth of Scotland in the best way possible -- onboard the Royal Scotsman.

[ Screams ] Felt good.

...an ultra-luxurious train that takes up to 2,000 guests a year around my homeland in luxury that is second to none.

Ohh!

Look!

Its ten carriages include sumptuous cabins for guests to sleep in... Ah, this is so great!

...two dining cars serving the finest haute cuisine... a spa carriage, and, my favorite, the opulent observation car and bar.

♪♪ This is the grandest of real adventures through the most romantic and rugged landscapes, stepping off the train to explore this country's historic landmarks... Gosh.

This is incredible.

...and discovering its regal treasures.

Can I touch it?

-You're not really supposed to, Alan.

[ Both chuckle ] ♪♪ -And I have seen first-hand the exquisite work that goes on behind the scenes to maintain the high standards that keep the passengers coming back year after year.

-We used seven cases of champagne, for example.

- This is a V.I.P.

tour of Scotland like you've never seen before.

King Alan.

So join me to find out what it takes to keep this ultra-luxury train on the rails.

♪♪ [ Birds chirping ] Early starts onboard the Royal Scotsman tend to hit just that bit differently.

Morning.

♪♪ As I ease myself into another day of splendor.

-Good morning.

Alan.

There's your yoga mat.

-Namaste.

-Enjoy.

♪♪ -Within a couple of short steps, I've left the luxury of my cabin and I am in a yoga studio with a difference.

♪♪ On platform one, Yogi Alan calling it peace and tranquility.

♪♪ ♪♪ Absolute bliss!

What a way to kick off the day.

Having spent almost a full summer on board, I've been lucky enough to wake up amongst some of Scotland's most stunning scenery.

[ Bird calls ] It's not difficult to get out of the right side of bed when you open your eyes to be greeted by some of Scotland's most breathtaking landscapes.

♪♪ As the guests on the Royal Scotsman awake, the crew are already hard at work, ensuring they have the best possible start to the day.

-I tend to start quite sharp in the morning.

I like to be one of the first members of staff up before the guests leave their rooms.

I like to be there to see who's coming down for breakfast first or an early morning walk so that I can nip in.

I can service the room straight away.

I can make sure that their needs are met, if there's anything I can do for them.

♪♪ -At which point I'm usually ready to swap my downward dog for a fry-up.

Hello.

Coming to join you.

How are you?

[ Indistinct conversations ] And while the menu is always exquisite, I found the opportunity to start my day chatting with fellow passengers to be truly special.

-This is my sister.

-Ah, I see.

-It is about creating something that's not just a physical journey, but it's about an emotional journey, as well.

And that's where the social element and really bringing on an emotional connection -- To me, that's the difference maker.

-We live near Peterborough... -Equidistant between Peterborough and Cambridge.

-Ah-ha.

-But where we live, no one's heard of.

So if you say Peterborough, Cambridge... -What's it called?

-Alconbury.

-Never heard of it.

-Yeah.

Exactly.

-Proved my point.

-Yeah.

-Oh, delicious!

Thank you.

-Please be careful.

That plate's quite hot.

-Okay.

Thanks!

Ohh!

♪♪ For weeks, the Royal Scotsman has taken me the length and breadth of the country along some of its most well-traveled routes.

I've seen so much of what Scotland has to offer, but there are still a few special places left for me to visit.

-Twice every year, we run a five night Clans, Castles, and Isles tour.

And it takes us into Oban, which is one of our favorite destinations that we kind of aspire to travel to a bit more often, and it's a great opportunity for us to showcase just a different part of the country.

♪♪ - The stunning port of Oban is one of Scotland's most popular holiday destinations.

And with the islands of the Inner Hebrides on its doorstep, it's known as Scotland's Gateway to the Isles.

The town marks the end of a branch of the West Highland Line, known in Gaelic as Rathad Iarainn nan Eilean, or the Iron Road to the Isles.

Previously cut off from Scotland's rail network, the line to Oban opened in 1880, coinciding with Scotland's summer season, the architects behind it astutely arranging a string of steamer boats to ferry tourists to nearby islands.

By summer's end, many tens of thousands had made the journey.

And to this day, it continues to draw the crowds, with its population of around eight and a half thousand swelling to around 25,000 in the summer months.

As the train waits on Oban Station Pier, guests disembark for a full day exploring the Isle of Mull.

On this occasion, however, I've got other plans in mind.

I've asked Fred and the team if they could arrange something a bit special.

And with no request too large, they've managed to organize me the luxury of my own private chartered boat.

-For us, it's all about satisfaction.

Even though we have a relatively set itinerary, we do a lot of work behind the scenes to make sure that we also can curate things for people, as well.

-Now, I've been to Mull many times and I love it, but on the Royal Scotsman, you can do anything.

So I'm going off piste and taking a trip somewhere I have longed to visit, truly, all my life.

The magical island of Iona.

♪♪ Rugged and untamed, Iona is home to a population of less than 200 permanent residents.

♪♪ At around 36 miles from the mainland, this wee isle can be found just off the south-west coast of Mull.

Despite its diminutive size, Iona is a site of huge spiritual significance and a place of pilgrimage for many.

Thanks to the arrival of Saint Columba to this bay on the south of the island in 563 A.D., Iona is celebrated as the cradle of Christianity in Scotland.

An Irish abbot and missionary, Columba landed with the intention of converting the people of Scotland to the Christian faith, soon establishing one of the most important and influential monasteries of the entire British Isles right here on Iona.

♪♪ My own spirituality beginning to stir, I've come to talk to Caro Penney... Hey, Caro.

I'm Alan.

-Good to meet you.

-Nice to meet you.

...warden for the residential community at Iona Abbey.

Iona seems to have a very special spiritual significance to many, many people, obviously to you and obviously to the Iona community.

Do you feel that that's because, um, of Columba coming here or do you feel he came here because of that?

-The story of why he came to Iona was because it was the first place he got to in his wee boat... -Hm.

-...where he could not see Ireland.

-A-ha.

-Now, I've also been told... Now, if it had been a really clear and sunny day, actually, he might have been able to see Ireland.

-So thank goodness for Scottish weather.

-Exactly.

Exactly.

-[ Laughs ] -Something had happened in Ireland.

Were not quite sure whether he was told to go away or whether he chose to leave.

-And when was the abbey built?

-So, the abbey was built in the 1200s.

Columba's buildings would have been wood and straw roofs and... -But there was always a -- -But it would have been here.

I mean, in this space, as it were.

-Yeah.

The abbey remained an important place of worship for hundreds of years, but by the end of the 17th century had fallen into decline.

This was until a process of restoration was begun in the early 20th century, resulting in the abbey church I see before me.

Ah, it's amazing!

The restoration work was continued from 1938 by a group known as the Iona Community, a Christian movement who worship at Iona Abbey to this very day, remaining true to their founding vision of pursuing justice and peace in Scotland and beyond.

And I am pleased to see they are championing a few causes close to my own heart.

And these are all the different... -And these are all the different ribbons of some of the causes that we support.

-That you then donate to.

I'm very happy to see you're so pro-queer.

-Thank you.

Yeah.

-Yeah.

-No, we're delighted to be.

-So... -Yeah.

-[ Laughs ] ♪♪ I've always wanted to come here.

I've always felt there's some sort of special spiritual something.

How do you explain that?

-It's a tradition.

I mean, knowing that this has been a spiritual place for so many people for centuries, you know?

-It's not easy to get here.

The idea you've got to make a pilgrimage to come here even before you start to contemplate all the rest of the stuff.

-I mean, that's one of the things I love about it.

And it's not just being here.

It's about coming here and then going back and taking Iona with you.

-Right.

Yeah.

-Because life is a pilgrimage.

-Right.

-You know?

-Um... -And then you die.

-And -- [ Laughs ] And the pilgrimage continues maybe.

-Maybe.

Yeah.

Who knows?

-[ Laughs ] [ Birdsong ] ♪♪ - While the guests are out visiting the Isles, in Oban, the crew on board the train are working their magic.

♪♪ [ Vacuum whirring ] ♪♪ -I am just setting up tables for dinner time.

The plates don't go out for breakfast.

They only go out for dinner.

Wine glasses for dinner.

And it all has to be shiny.

The table has to look good.

♪♪ - It's all hands on deck to ensure the train is pristine for the guests' return.

And even restaurant manager Max has got the vacuum out.

♪♪ -Why are you faffing about with no shoes?

-Because I was on my hands and knees, Robyn.

-Max is only doing that from the cameras.

He doesn't -- I've never seen Max hoover ever in my life.

[ Laughter ] ♪♪ - Meanwhile, I am still on the gorgeous Iona and have returned to my private charter boat where I've arranged to meet local craftswoman Mhairi Killin.

Mhairi.

-Alan.

-Hello.

Nice to meet you.

-Lovely to meet you.

- Mhairi is the founder of a gallery and studio making contemporary jewelry here on Iona.

Her work is created with special dispensation using stone and marble foraged from beaches on the island.

♪♪ Iona has some of the most fascinating and complex geology in the world, with some stone and rock here dated to over 2,000 million years old.

And this afternoon, I'm back out to sea to get a better look at the Iona Marble Quarry, where, until the early 20th century, some of this precious stone was extracted.

-We are looking at some of the oldest rock on the planet.

It's a seam of white marble.

A forsterite tremolite marble.

- The quarrymen would have hammered directly into the cliff face, hauling away huge sections of precious marble.

And looking at the immense blocks of stone and machinery still left here today, I get a clear sense how skilled and dangerous the work must have been.

-It's quite breathtaking to think, given Iona's geographical location and the inaccessibility -- -Right.

-If you look at this, there's no pier.

-Yeah.

They have to access it down from the hill.

-No, they came by boat.

It was all done by boat.

-Oh, was it?

-And they slipped in between the two rocks and tied up between the rocks to offload the marble for export.

As far as we know, the earliest kind of commercial period of the marble quality on Iona was around the late 1700s, 1790s, when the Duke of Argyll commissioned a German geologist called Rudolf Erich Raspe to survey all the quarries that were in Argyll.

And we probably know Rudolph slightly better as the author of the "Baron Munchausen" stories.

-Oh!

Really?

-Yeah.

So... -Has he moonlighted as a geologist?

-He did, indeed, so he was quite a colorful character.

And I often wonder whether the very beautiful Celtic twilight and other world of the Inner Hebrides influenced some of those Baron Munchausen stories.

-Ohh.

-So there's a thought.

- With its distinct coloring, the marble was popular the world over, famous examples including the pulpit of the Saint Andrew's Church in Jerusalem.

Sought-after modern jewelry is created from green serpentine pebbles known as Saint Columba's Tears, thanks to a reputation for embodying protective and healing properties.

-And I actually wanted to give you this one to keep because it's a lovely example of the white marble... -What?

With the green one inside?

-...with the serpentine through.

And it's a lovely -- it's a lovely shape to hold.

-[ Laughs ] -Thank you so much!

-Yeah, you're very welcome.

-I really am really touched.

♪♪ I'm not at all religious.

I would consider myself to be atheist.

But I do feel very conscious about energy, spiritual energy, and I feel here today a sense of real calmness, and I can completely understand why -- how that can be parlayed into... religious reflection and communion with God... ...whoever She is.

♪♪ Back on the mainland... the crew are getting some much-needed downtime.

-In Oban, a lot of the guests are out visiting the Isle of Mull.

It takes up an entire day, and I think the crew take the opportunity to relish not only being in Oban, but having an unusual kind of extended amount of time off.

You know, whenever the weather is good to us, we do our best we can to enjoy it.

♪♪ - Oban is known as the seafood capital of Scotland.

And with the freshest and finest produce landing here, the team are heading to a dockside seafood hut to sample some.

-There's mussels, lobster, scallops.

-We'll have oysters.

-Okay.

Will you come with me and help here?

-Yeah, absolutely.

Try and find somewhere we can sit together.

-When you're on the train, it's like you're in a train bubble.

You almost forget there's an outside world.

That's sometimes how I feel.

I kind of forget to, like, respond to text messages from my fiancé or from my mum.

And with the crew, we -- Because we live together, we work day in, day out, we get to know each other and we genuinely have a good time together.

-Number 22.

-Mussels.

-That's my lucky number.

Good.

-No more for you.

-Okay.

Thank you.

We're all genuine people who want to have a good time.

We want to enjoy what we do.

We have to enjoy it.

- That's some platter!

Better keep the seagulls away!

♪♪ -Mmm-mmm!

Good?

[ Seagulls crying ] - Restaurant manager Max is helping steward Julie experience her first oyster.

-Is it fishy?

-That's good.

Not really.

So, put it in your mouth.

Chew it once or twice and then just swallow.

Right.

Cheers.

One, two, three.

Go.

Chew it.

So swallow.

[ Laughs ] I mean -- Good?

Get a drink.

[ Laughs ] -Mnh!

[ Laughs ] -That wasn't that bad.

-See?

♪♪ - I've left Iona, but before I head back to Oban, I couldn't resist the opportunity to visit another Scottish landmark and have sailed north to the nearby island of Staffa.

♪♪ [ Vocalizing Mendelssohn's "Hebrides Overture" ] ♪♪ Mendelssohn.

"Fingal's Cave."

Did you get it?

♪♪ Staffa is famous for its dramatic rock formations formed from columns of cooled basalt lava that flowed from an eruption of the Mull volcano some 59 million years ago.

♪♪ Despite its remote location, in the late 1700s, Staffa became a key venue on the cultural Grand Tour of Europe, with visitors including no less than Queen Victoria herself.

And in 1829, the aforementioned German composer Felix Mendelssohn was inspired to write his "Hebrides Overture," more popularly known as "Fingal's Cave."

♪♪ It's time to get back on the train.

And the best part of this service, besides the old-world glamour, exquisite food, and endless drink, of course, is the bond you make with fellow guests.

And during my time on board, I've even bumped into a familiar face.

Cheers, Barbara.

-Cheers.

It's so nice to be sitting here talking to you.

-Mm-hmm.

Likewise.

Of course, what people might not realize is that this is not the first time we've met Barbara, is it?

-No.

No.

-You made your Broadway debut with me, didn't you?

-Yes, I did.

I lived in New York.

And my mother loved to come up to see the -- -She called them "the plays."

-[ Chuckles ] Yeah.

And one year, did you come to see a show called "Cabaret"?

-I came to see a show called "Cabaret."

- This was the '90s production of the classic musical "Cabaret" that went on to become the third-longest running revival in Broadway history, for which I won a Tony Award.

But awards mean nothing.

-And I think it was '86?

-No.

'98.

Yes.

-I mean '98.

'98.

Yeah.

-I'm not that old, Barbara.

-[ Laughs ] I am, but you aren't.

Anyway, here he is saying, "Okay.

This is the audience participation time."

-That's right.

-And I'm sitting there.

And Alan comes down the steps, and I'm going like this.

"Please don't pick me.

Please don't pick me."

-You see, whenever anyone did that, those are the people I totally would want to pick.

-And then they shine a light on my mother, and she just goes like this.

-[ Laughs ] Ahh.

-And so she goes back to Florida and tells all of her bridge ladies that her daughter danced on Broadway.

-See?

Dreams do come true.

-Well, cheers.

-Cheers.

Lovely to see you again.

♪♪ - I'm onboard the Royal Scotsman, traveling through the central heart of Scotland.

♪♪ ...while the crew pamper us as usual.

-Alan, your afternoon tea.

-Thank you.

-You're very welcome.

♪♪ - After weeks of fine dining, you wouldn't think I'd still have an appetite.

Good.

But surprise!

I do.

So nice.

This trip is a first experience of Scotland for many on board, like Chip from Knoxville, Tennessee.

What do you think of when you think of Scotland?

-"Braveheart" and "The Outlander."

-[ Laughs ] Right.

Okay.

-We were told the food was excellent... -'Tis.

-...and the company was always good.

-Why, thanks, Chip!

-[ Laughs ] - And as we segue from country to city, it can be handy for international passengers to have a local on board.

This is Perth.

-Huh?

-Perth.

Straddling the River Tay, Perth was officially named Scotland's seventh city in 2012 and has one of the country's fastest-growing populations.

Due to its central location between Scotland's major cities, the station here, which opened in 1848, became a major hub for emerging Victorian railways.

In 1935, Railway Wonders of the World magazine said, "Perth might be compared to a hand grasping a bunch of reins, the reins being the converging main lines of Central Scotland."

And it's here that guests disembark for a very special outing.

♪♪ A trip to the nearby Scone Palace.

One of the most important historical sites in Scotland, Scone opened its doors to the public in 1966.

♪♪ For the last 400 years, it's been home to the Earls of Mansfield.

But before I meet the family, my visit begins at the chapel on the palace grounds.

Scone Palace is not just a beautiful building.

It's also incredibly important in the whole history of Scottish royalty and Scottish governance because this was the original site of the first Scottish Parliament.

And for many, many years, Scottish kings were crowned here, starting with, in 843, this guy, Kenneth MacAlpin.

"King Kenneth MacAlpin" sounds a bit funny.

It sounds more like a football commentator than a king.

But nonetheless, that was him.

We've got many others.

Robert the Bruce over there.

Macbeth is here.

This was where it all happened.

And this thing here was integral to the whole crowning thing.

This is the Stone of Destiny.

This is actually a fake one.

It's a -- It's a sort of copy.

The real one was stolen from Scone Palace in 1296 by the English.

And it remained in Westminster Abbey until the 1950s, when a bunch of crazy Scottish activist students went and nabbed it and took it back as a gesture.

And then they had to give it back, of course.

But then, in 1996, the people of Scotland, via the Scottish Parliament, demanded the Stone of Destiny come back to its rightful home...kind of.

And it went to Edinburgh Castle, and that is where it has remained until it made a journey down south recently for the coronation of King Charles because he could not be properly crowned as the king of all of Britain unless he was sitting upon the Stone of Destiny.

So now... Ha ha!

[ Fingers snap ] King Alan.

♪♪ And like only royalty could, I am meeting the lady of the house, Countess Mansfield, for a peek behind the curtain.

Lady Mansfield, thank you so much for letting us come to your private part of the palace.

This is actually your living room.

-Yes, that's ab-- Absolutely, Alan.

This is the living room.

Regular tourists don't come to see this area.

-Do you like living in a palace?

-Yes.

I mean, yes.

It's a great honor.

It's a great privilege.

I mean, there's lots to do.

There's lots of steps to be taken every day.

-Literally.

-[Laughing] Your walk count on your phone runs up.

-So it's healthy.

-[ Chuckles ] -While I could make myself right at home here in the palace's private quarters, there is an abundance of priceless works of art I am desperate to explore.

And Lady Mansfield has been good enough to take me on a private tour.

-Alan, one of the things that are particularly famous here is our Long Gallery.

-Wow!

-Was the longest room in Scotland until Holyrood Palace decided to build a larger room.

-I hate when that happens.

-[ Laughs ] -But I have to say, as well, what a magnificent organ.

-Still in working order.

-Is it?

-Yeah.

Do you play?

-Do I play the organ?

That's a loaded question, Lady Mansfield.

But "no" is the short answer.

But one famous artwork in particular has caught my eye.

-And, Alan, here we have our most famous and wonderful portrait of Dido Elizabeth Belle and Lady Elizabeth Murray.

-Dido is a woman of color.

-Absolutely.

-So what's the story there?

-The First Earl of Mansfield, he and his wife had no children of their own.

And his nephew, Sir John Lindsay, asked him if he would look after his daughter, Dido.

He had saved Dido's mother from a Spanish slaver off the coast of Cuba.

-Right.

-And she had given birth to Dido.

-And they had an affair.

-They had an affair.

-So this is really unusual.

It's a daughter of an aristocrat, was brought into the aristocratic family.

-And brought up as family.

-And she was not a servant?

-No, she was not.

Look at the clothes she's wearing.

-Yes.

-You know, the silks.

Look at the pearls around her neck.

-I love her little...

This is incredible because it's a beautiful painting, but also historically and racially, it's groundbreaking and sort of incredible, yeah.

-Totally.

Totally.

- This portrait is a star attraction here at Scone, but around every corner, there are a myriad of artifacts, like this writing box gifted to the Second Earl of Mansfield by Marie Antoinette.

So Marie Antoinette has touched that?

-Yes.

Yes.

-Can I touch it?

-Um, you're not really supposed to, Alan.

-I'll just do one finger.

[ Both laugh ] - And this dining table, handcrafted for a visit from Queen Victoria in 1842.

-When she came, we put in a brand-new drive called the Queen's Drive, a brand-new bridge, the Queen's Bridge.

-Wow!

-And, Alan... how long do you think they stayed?

Just guess.

-Like one night?

-[ Tuts ] Damn.

Got it.

You got it.

-[ Fingers snap ] Nailed it!

Gosh.

That's a lot of prep.

-Yep.

-Hope she appreciated it.

-Oh, I think -- I mean, she fell in love with Scotland, and, you know, the royal family ended up buying Balmoral, didn't they?

-Oh, that was bef-- So that was her first sort of visit.

-Yes.

Yes.

-So you're partly responsible for her affaire de coeur with the homeland.

-Yes.

With Scotland.

Yes.

- With such rich history, it's no wonder over 100,000 visitors flock here every year.

You could say it's their destiny.

♪♪ Back in Perth, work for the bar staff of the train hasn't stopped.

And having just returned from my tour, I think I should lend a hand.

-We are receiving our wine delivery.

-Delivery man's come.

-The delivery man has come.

-Want a hand?

-Yes, absolutely.

So we just stack the boxes beside the cellar.

♪♪ -Do you have to -- They organize the booze to come on in different places according to the different... -Yes.

Yes, exactly.

This is one of the main points where we receive wine delivery.

And then champagne.

-Champagne.

Champagne.

-Always important.

We use about 45 bottles of these per trip at least.

-God!

Well, you do lash it.

-We do.

We pour it like water.

- That's nearly 2,600 bottles during the 2023 season alone.

And with 30 varieties of wines on board, bar staff like Bogdan really need to know their stuff.

So, Bogdan, how long have you worked on the train?

-So, it is my second season.

I was applying for...

It's a funny story because, you know, in this moment, I do video for TikTok, as well, with my cocktails and my work.

-Oh, yeah.

-So I told... "Do you want me to send a video?"

He was like, "Okay.

Yes, yes."

-So you auditioned for this job on video?

-Yes.

[ Laughs ] -How funny.

What do you think of my bussing services?

-You can start tomorrow if you want.

-I don't -- This is my video application.

-We've almost finished already.

-Yeah.

- Audition over, the train is fully stocked, and we're off again... ♪♪ ...leaving Perth and heading on toward our final stop.

♪♪ With this being our last night on board, my fellow passengers and I are taking every opportunity to enjoy the sumptuous surroundings of the train.

Sorry you had to see that.

We're making the most of it, and the staff are pulling out all the stops to make it special.

-We normally don't do the noise when we open the champagne in front of the guests, but sometimes we just like to have fun behind the bar.

Next one, we're gonna shake for you.

[ Laughter ] ♪♪ - In the kitchen, executive chef Mark is busy preparing focaccia bread for our final dinner.

-I half-baked the bread so far.

And then I'll just put some more olive oil over.

Just a bit.

Nice and moist.

That seeps through the dough while it's baking.

And then once it comes back out again, I'll go back over it with some more olive oil, get a nice fat flavor.

And that's all done baking for the day after these ones are baked off.

Lovely.

- Lovely indeed, but Mark's a long way from finished.

And while he and the crew crack on with preparations... ♪♪ ...we've arrived in our berth for the night in the city of Dundee.

♪♪ With a proud industrial heritage at its heart, Dundee also has a strong cultural soul, nowhere better exemplified than on our final excursion here to the V&A Dundee.

And I'm here today to visit an exhibition that's drawing the crowds all about the most emblematic of Scottish textiles, tartan, with exhibition curators Kirsty and James.

-Hi there.

Lovely to see you.

How are you?

♪♪ - From high fashion to draught excluders, the exhibition showcases the social and cultural impact of material that is both deeply radical... while often terrifically twee.

And where better to start exploring than with this literal golden oldie.

-This is Scotland's oldest tartan.

-What?

-It was found while peat cutting up in Glen Affric in the 1980s.

The beauty thing about peat bogs is they'll preserve lots of different things.

-Bodies.

-Bodies.

-Bodies.

[ Laughs ] And also woolen textiles, as well.

-So it's from between 1500 and 1600?

-Yeah, so we're talking about, you know, King James V. - It's amazing to see a celebration of these historical artifacts up close and in person.

But the exhibition doesn't shy away from the role tartan has played in more disturbing periods of history.

-So, what we have here are some of the only pieces of written documentation of tartans placed within the transatlantic slave trade.

-Ooh.

-So they're quite harrowing.

One of the letters is an order of tartan to go out to South Carolina.

And the other's actually a Scottish plantation owner in Jamaica who's then ordered tartan to then enclothe his enslaved people with.

-Gosh.

As a proud Scot, it's sobering to think of a material so keenly associated with my country ever having been used in this manner, but it's moments of light and shade like this that give this exhibition such fascinating depth.

-I think the real crux of the show is looking at tartan as a textile of duality, so it can be two things at the same time.

So a textile of oppression, a textile of rebellion, and, yeah, everything in between.

- And it's here in the in-between that you might just spot a familiar face.

There I am.

That's right -- I've somehow managed to foist myself upon the exhibition.

It's so funny to see it again.

In 2014, my portrait was painted by artist Christian Hook.

Looking to emphasize my Scottish heritage, Christian subtly draped me with my own kilt... around my neck.

This was in Studio 54 in New York.

-Was it?

-Yeah, so that's what those little footlights... -Ahh!

-Those were over on the edge of the stage when I was doing "Cabaret."

The tartan of that kilt I've got around my neck is the official tartan of the Independence Campaign.

-There's not really anything else I've seen that's like this.

-We just knew it was, like, one of these prime objects that we wanted to see within the exhibition.

-Yeah.

Absolutely.

Yeah.

From the moment we saw it in Edinburgh, we were like, "Yeah, we need to have this in the exhibition."

-Hello?

Hello?

Hello?

-Oh, my gosh!

-Oh my.

Stunning!

-It's like the portrait has come to life!

-This is the very kilt.

-Wow.

Amazing.

-This is the actual kilt.

-I still -- It's my kilt.

-It's your kilt.

-And, um, you can see... some of the paint spatters.

See there?

-Oh!

-Some little paint splatters that Christian -- 'Cause he sort of "fffwtt'd" it, and we did some test things, and he had paint, and I was dancing, and I would do a move and he would sort of emulate me with the paint, but he would sort of flick paint at the thing, and it got on the thing.

-A nice souvenir to have.

-I know.

I know.

I love this kilt.

I love it.

It's got the remnants of the picture on it.

-Absolutely.

-I'm delighted to have seen my portrait again, but before I leave, another tartan-clad pin-up has caught my eye.

This is a safe-sex art from the 90s.

If you have ever worn a kilt or if you are Scottish, you will know, everywhere you go, people ask you what you wear under your kilt.

And this ad very cleverly sort of took that and turned it on its head.

"What should a real Scotsman wear under his kilt?

A condom."

And I think it shows the power that tartan can have -- political messages and sort of subversive messages and also messages for good.

So bravo.

♪♪ With the train berthed in Dundee Station, the staff and my fellow guests are all in their finery enjoying the final-night celebrations.

♪♪ Not to be outdone, I am suited and booted in my kilt from the V&A.

But before I join the fun...

I'll be back.

...I've offered to make myself useful.

Hi, boys.

Executive chef Mark has excelled himself, rustling up some mouthwatering treats to get us started.

Looks delicious.

-And these are palmiers of wild mushrooms, spinach, and cheddar cheese.

- Now all I have to do is remember my lines.

Mushroom and truffle... -Palmier.

-...palmier.

Black pudding bonbons and a... -Chilean lemon.

-...creamy sauce.

[ Laughter ] I'm all over it.

I'm a quick study.

Thank you.

-Thank you.

-Okay.

Right.

Here goes.

Chant for me.

♪♪ Mushroom, spinach, cheddar cheese, and truffle palmier.

-Somebody -- You worked on selling those things.

-[ Laughs ] -Well played, sir.

-A goujon.

-That sounds very fancy.

-It is fancy.

-I will have a goujon.

-Go on.

You're fancy.

-Dip your goujon.

-Dip your goujon.

-I'm gonna try the cheesy one.

-Try it.

-Yeah.

-Merci.

-There we are.

Merci.

-It's my first goujon I've ever had.

-Well, welcome to the world of goujon.

[ Laughter ] -What's this?

-Black pudding.

-It's blood.

-It's like a blood sausage.

-It's basically blood.

-Sausage.

[ Laughter ] - And just like that, my tray is depleted.

-Ellie, look.

-You did a very good job.

How was it?

-The mayonnaise wasn't as popular as I thought it might be, but everything else -- I've also -- My -- This is like a workout.

-I know.

You can see your guns.

-My guns.

Check these guns out.

Can you see these guns?

-[ Laughs ] - Maybe it's best I leave it to the professionals.

Gosh, that was exhausting.

♪♪ Now that I've sufficiently whetted everyone's appetite, we make our way to the dining car for the final gala meal.

♪♪ Tonight's menu kicks off with a Shetland lobster consommé and a tomato lobster tortellini... with a vegan tomato and basil consommé for me.

Delish.

-Please enjoy.

-Thank you.

[ Indistinct conversations ] And it's a great last chance to enjoy some time with the friends I've made on this journey.

♪♪ -If we connect to them emotionally, if we can give them a memory that goes beyond the physical, that's a big part of it for us.

The human connection that we give our guests with each other... that emotion is priceless.

♪♪ - Tonight's main is a horseradish mash, confit carrot, green beans, fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef, topped with peppercorn café au lait sauce... ♪♪ ...with vegan chicken swapped in for me.

Thanks!

♪♪ And it's all exquisitely delivered by the staff who have fostered real connections with the guests... -Oh, you did it!

It looks great!

- ...albeit in the rather idiosyncratic setting of a busy railway station.

[ Horn blares ] [ Laughter ] [ Indistinct conversations ] And after a final course of dark chocolate and passion fruit pavê with pistachio ice cream... ♪♪ ...the guests get a chance to thank the kitchen staff for all their hard work.

[ Cheers and applause ] Bravo!

-Bravo!

-Ladies and gentlemen, myself, Colin, Beth -- we hope you've enjoyed all the food that we've served you over the last... -Yes.

-We have.

-We'd love to see you all in the morning for breakfast.

[ Cheers and applause ] ♪♪ - As the night draws in, guests retire to the observation car... ♪♪ ...for coffee, liqueurs, and fabulous company... ♪♪ ...and Brian and Gregor, tonight's evening entertainers.

♪♪ But I need to meet a special visitor who has just arrived.

Hi, Mom.

[ Chuckles ] How are you?

-Lovely.

Yes, lovely.

-[ Laughs ] ♪♪ My mom, everybody.

[ Laughs ] That's my mom.

-Yeah.

Well, hi there.

-Yeah.

-I'm Jeff Fletcher from Tennessee.

-Ohh!

♪♪ - But my dear mum, Mary Darling, barely has time to get a drink... ♪♪ ...before the party moves to platform three of Dundee Station... [ Indistinct chanting ] ♪♪ ...where soon a full-blown cèilidhean is in effect.

♪♪ -Do-si-do!

-What must the 8:00 from Aberdeen think?

♪♪ -Ah.

It's fantastic.

It's more energetic, more running around than I thought.

♪♪ -We've loved everything.

Just the whole trip.

♪♪ -It's the first time I've ever done this on a train platform.

I'm sweating, as you can see.

I mean, it's a grand finale.

It's part of a Scottish journey.

So I think it's a fun way to end our trip.

-I'm glad I had some wine secretly before.

-Yeah.

-[ Laughs ] -I think we try and build a trip to a kind of crescendo... -Yeah.

-...so to speak.

So I'm glad that the final night has been a highlight for them.

-♪ We'll take a cup of kindness yet ♪ ♪ For auld lang syne ♪ [ All cheering ] - What a sensational final evening of this amazing journey.

♪♪ After last night's exertions, I am woken by the train leaving Dundee.

♪♪ One of the things about luxury travel is that you wake up and you find a film crew in your bloomin' room.

Get oot!

♪♪ We're crossing the Tay Bridge on our final journey back to Edinburgh Waverley.

♪♪ And as we race through Fife, I'm heading to one of my very favorite places -- the Royal Scotsman observation deck.

Ohh!

Look at that beach!

Ahh... [ Laughs ] What's great about this trip is that the money shot is left till the end.

We're about to cross the Forth.

Spec-tac-ular!

♪♪ The Forth Bridge is an iconic symbol of Scotland.

♪♪ After eight years of construction, the bridge was opened in 1890.

It has been voted Scotland's greatest man-made wonder and, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, continues to be the world's second-longest cantilever span and still has up to 200 trains crossing every day.

♪♪ [ Screaming ] Felt good.

♪♪ But while this is a site known the world over... Wow!

Look at that!

...only the Royal Scotsman can deliver a view from this angle.

♪♪ It really is quite breathtaking.

♪♪ ♪♪ There's just a few minutes for a last walk-through to remember my time here... ♪♪ ...with the staff... [ Laughter ] ♪♪ ...the meals and company of other guests... -I got it.

-Ohh!

♪♪ ...the amazing places the train has taken me... ♪♪ ...and the star of the show, the train itself.

♪♪ And as they roll out the red carpet at Waverley... ...just like that, it's all over.

All good things must come to an end.

♪♪ -I would hope that every single guest that comes to stay with us leaves here with a feeling that they've had a wonderful time and it's been something that they look back on for years to come.

♪♪ -One of my favorite moments that I'll never get tired of watching is at the conclusion of every journey, we will step outside of the train and we'll meet every guest as they depart.

And we will shake their hands.

-Bye, lovely.

-Aww!

Thank you!

-Quite often, will be given an embrace.

They'll shed a tear or two.

♪♪ And I think those are the moments where we know that we've been able to make a difference and create something that is beyond the average experience.

-Bye!

-Thank you!

♪♪ Oh, my God.

Like The von Trapps.

♪♪ Aww.

I'm gonna miss them.

♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪