
Azores Islands (Part 2)
Season 5 Episode 6 | 26m 47sVideo has Closed Captions
Jeff and the crew head to the neighboring island of Sao Jorge to explore its remote northern coast.
After exploring the island of Terceira in the Azores, Jeff and the crew head to the neighboring island of Sao Jorge to explore its remote northern coast. Steep jungle cliffs lead to breathtaking views and to a quaint village on the southern coast reveals its secrets.
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Outside Beyond the Lens is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Azores Islands (Part 2)
Season 5 Episode 6 | 26m 47sVideo has Closed Captions
After exploring the island of Terceira in the Azores, Jeff and the crew head to the neighboring island of Sao Jorge to explore its remote northern coast. Steep jungle cliffs lead to breathtaking views and to a quaint village on the southern coast reveals its secrets.
Problems with Closed Captions? Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship- [Jeff Aiello] Production funding for "Outside Beyond the Lens" provided by Visit Fresno County, home to unique attractions, California's fifth largest city, and easy access to three nearby national parks.
By Advanced Beverage Company serving Bakersfield and Kern County for over 50 years.
By Hedrick's Chevrolet.
- We are proud to support the spirit of travel in each of us.
Every journey has a first step.
Adventures start here.
(mellow music) - [Jeff Aiello] By Hodges Electric Inc. Over five decades of delivering innovative solutions for residential, agricultural, and battery storage systems.
By the Penstar Group.
Promoting opportunity and growth for the future.
By Central California's Valley Children's Healthcare, futures worth fighting for.
By A-Plus Signs, we never stop innovating for you.
And by Valley Air Conditioning and Repair.
Family owned and trusted for over 50 years.
Proud to support public television and the wonders of travel.
(mellow music) - Okay, so it's 7:15 local time here on Terceira.
And the boys and I are loaded up a little earlier than we'd all probably like to be, but we've got a flight on SATA Airlines to catch at I think 9:30.
And we need to take the rental car back and walk a little bit to get to the airport, check in, and then get ready for the island hopper.
It's only gonna be like a 25 minute flight from here over to São Jorge, which is gonna be our next island.
Which we're all looking forward to.
When we first landed on the island of Terceira, it felt like stepping into a dream stitched together by wind, water, and time.
And in just 24 fast-paced hours, we raced to uncover its colorful villages, volcanic landscapes, and the spirit of people forever tied to the sea.
(boat honking) But the Azores, these nine volcanic islands scattered like stepping stones across the Atlantic are much more than a single place.
They are Portugal's farthest reach, a living link between Europe and the open ocean.
A place where nature writes the rules and where those who call it home find their own way to live by them.
- [Man] Zach is already digging the donkeys.
He's already made friends with two of them.
- [Jeff Aiello] Today, our path leads us to a neighboring island, São Jorge.
SATA Airlines, the Azores' own carrier, connects these remote islands with a service that feels more like flying with family than just getting from point A to point B. SATTA becomes a trusted companion on a journey that demands a little more patience and rewards it with so much more.
In just a short hop, the outline of São Jorge rises from the sea, long, narrow, and jagged.
They call it the Dragon Island, and from the air, it's easy to see why.
A serrated spine of volcanic mountains runs down its center while steep green cliffs tumble into the Atlantic like folds of a sleeping dragon's back.
Our base camp for the next few days will be the small harbor town of Velas.
A peaceful place to catch our breath before setting out to discover a land shaped by fire and water.
- [Man] All right, well, another one of the breathtaking views that we're having along our drive to the far eastern end of São Jorge, it's the town of Topo we're headed to.
This moment of zen interrupted by Zach Allen and his drone.
- [Jeff Aiello] This is a place of hidden treasures.
- [Man] Okay, this is unreal.
- [Jeff Aiello] Ancient coastal villages called Fajas, where fertile land slips between cliffs and sea.
Places like Fajã dos Cubres, where the world seems to slow down to the rhythm of the waves.
- [Man] Johnny and I are out here on the peninsula on the edge of the lagoon.
John's getting a pretty cool shot set up of this neat little yurt rock hut thing.
- [Jeff Aiello] And viewpoints like Miradouro do Topo where standing on the edge of the world doesn't feel like a metaphor, it feels real.
And you can see way off in the distance behind me is Terceira.
That's the island we were at a couple of days ago.
Get ready to journey deep into South Georgia's wild beauty where the power of nature and the persistence of people collide.
- She's a lover.
This one.
- This is (speaking in foreign language) breed, so as you can see, it has a cross of Christ.
- [Jeff Aiello] Yeah.
- And she's from Azores.
Beautiful.
And where sometimes the best pictures were the ones you never knew you were looking for.
- [Man] This is a very special place - [Jeff Aiello] When you travel, the world becomes a smaller place.
When you explore with friends like mine who share a love of photography, destinations come to life.
(plane whooshing) (man laughing) We tell the stories of travel with our cameras, capturing the wonders of this world in every frame.
- Day one of filming on the island and it's like crazy.
- [Jeff Aiello] But on every trip, the unplanned moments we film are the ones we remember the most.
- [Man] Jordan, good to meet you brother.
- Good to meet you too.
(indistinct) Man.
Now join David Boomer, Zach Allen, John Neely, and me Jeff Aiello, as we set out on a new journey to discover the people, places, and food that all make travel life's never ending adventure.
This is "Outside Beyond the Lens."
(upbeat music) (somber music) It doesn't take long after landing on São Jorge to realize this island moves to a slower beat.
(woman harmonizing) But once again, we have to survive the rental car situation.
Our crew was no stranger to small rental cars.
We've packed gear into compact hatchbacks from Croatia to Colorado, but the little orange go-kart waiting for us in the South Georgia airport parking lot might just be the tiniest yet.
The only way to make this work is to run a shuttle.
Bags first, then two of us go back for the rest of the team.
Nothing like starting your journey on the Dragon Island with a little logistical comedy.
Eventually we wind our way to the seaside town of Velas, the island's main harbor, and home to the charming and central Hotel São Jorge.
Nestled in the hills that wrap around this sleepy port town, the hotel overlooks the Atlantic with rooms that open up to sea breezes and the sounds of gulls and fishing boats.
(woman harmonizng) After days of racing against the clock on Terceira, we decide collectively that it's time to downshift.
(woman harmonizng) Sometimes the best way to capture a place is to let it come to you.
(woman harmonizng) (seagulls squaking) By late afternoon with rested eyes and recharged batteries, both human and camera, we wandered down into Velas.
It's a quaint fishing town with a small village vibe and a place that just says, "Relax."
(woman harmonizng) Here, photography becomes less about chasing light and more about noticing it.
(woman harmonizng) This town, like the island itself, asks nothing of you, but if you slow down long enough, it offers everything.
Peace, texture, and soul.
(woman harmonizng) We wander with no rush, letting the soft rhythms of Velas guide us, but there is a destination on our minds.
Somewhere in this quiet tangle of streets, a small Brazilian restaurant that John spotted online, a local favorite, tucked just off the main square.
We follow the glow of street lights beginning to burn through a setting sun and the scent of something grilled.
It's not the kind of place you find in a travel brochure.
No neon signs or polished menus.
Just a few tables, a friendly nod from the owner, and the promise of food made with heart.
- [Man] There's a lot of tension in the air.
- [Man] Yeah, I know.
There's a lot of pressure here, Johnny.
- [Man] Oh, he likes it.
He knows it.
He knows it.
Yeah.
- [Man] I think these beans must be good.
- [Man] Yeah, he knows it.
(laughs) Thank you.
- Thank you.
(ambient music) - [Narrator] Morning breaks over São Jorge casting soft light across our first full day on what many called the Dragon Island.
(ambient music) We're up early drawn by that quiet pool of curiosity that comes with discovering someplace new, someplace wild.
(ambient music) Right away, the vibe here is unmistakably different.
Life on São Jorge moves at a slower pace.
There's a rhythm to the island that feels rooted, unhurried, and grounded in simplicity.
With just over 8,000 residents scattered across its narrow length, the island's long thin shape and modest road system make it easy to feel connected to both land and sea at the same time.
As we head east, the road gradually lifts us out of the low lying villages and into a dreamlike layer of morning mist that clings to the hills.
All right, well, another one of the breathtaking views that we're having along our drive to the far eastern end of São Jorge, the little town of Topo, we're headed to.
This moment of zen interrupted by Zach Allen and his drone.
It's okay, he's getting some cool shots with that thing, right, Zach?
Lemme see.
Let's see what you got.
- [Zach] Just dropping it down into the valley.
- Dropping it into the valley.
The hydrangeas are jamming.
Maybe fly over to those hydrangeas over there on that mountain.
The road winds on eventually leading us to the far eastern edge of São Jorge to a quiet village called Topo, where land gives way to ocean and time seems to hold its breath.
(ambient music) Here at what feels like the end of the world, the Atlantic stretches out in every direction, broken only by the jagged coastline and the rhythmic pulse of waves.
Perched above it all is the Topo lighthouse, a stoic sentinel that has watched over these waters for generations.
It's simple white tower stands not just as a guide for ships, but as a symbol of endurance against the wind and sea.
At our feet, something unexpected, an intricate compass rose laid in stone, perfectly aligned, as if to remind travelers of where they are and from which direction they came from.
It feels less like a map and more like a message, a gentle nudge to keep exploring, to stay curious, to let the journey unfold.
We're at the end, the far eastern end of the island.
And you can see way off in the distance behind me is Terceira.
That's the island we were at a couple of days ago and took the short SATA Airlines flight right over here, about 20 minute flight over to São Jorge.
The small village of Topo is just up the hill from us.
Some of the houses here are on the outskirts of town.
Everybody has a garden, everybody has a couple cows, everybody has a couple goats.
It's just a wonderful place to chill.
(ambient music) We shift our journey now to the wild north shore of São Jorge.
A coastline few travelers ever see, yet one that rivals some of the world's most iconic landscapes.
It feels almost cinematic, like we've stumbled onto the set of some forgotten epic where towering cliffs thick with jungle tumble headfirst into the Atlantic.
(ambient music) There's a resemblance here to places like Kauai's Nepali coast where vertical beauty is measured, not just in height but in emotion.
(dramatic music) Crossing the spine of the island, we pause at roadside farms where the Azores signature patchwork of green fields and volcanic stone walls unfolds beneath the sky painted with clouds.
In the distance, Pico and Faial rise from the sea.
Constant companions on this journey, anchoring our horizon with their quiet presence.
Then the land begins to change, our path narrows, the scenery tightens.
And just when we think we've seen the island's best, São Jorge delivers something completely unexpected.
- Oh!
- Oh my gosh, you guys.
That is ham.
- [Man] There's the village down below.
- Folks, this drive down to the Fajã is crazy.
Mind is blown.
All right, here's a look at...
This is just insanely gorgeous, beautiful.
The green, the blue waters, Terceira Island off in the distance.
Look at this.
Dude, it's breathtaking.
- Look at that.
I want to snorkel that right now.
- God.
(indistinct) Okay.
This is unreal.
I'm literally freaking out at how pretty this is.
From the edge, a narrow road snakes downward, tight, and twisting as if carved into the very bones of the earth itself.
(dramatic music) We descend slowly, cautiously, into a world that feels like it belongs to another time.
This Fajã dos Cubres.
Centuries ago, massive landslides reshaped this part of the island.
Chunks of São Jorge's towering cliffs gave way collapsing into the sea and creating what locals call Fajas, flat coastal shelves that now hold some of the island's most unique and remote communities.
Each one has its own story.
Each one, a fragile thread between the cliffs above and the sea below.
(dramatic music) Fajã dos Cubres is no exception.
Tucked into the lush folds of this geologic drama, the tiny village that stands here today seems impossibly balanced, built atop the remnants of ancient earth in motion.
It's a place where time lingers, where the ocean still whispers reminders of the power that shaped this island long ago.
(dramatic music) (birds chirping) All right.
John Neely and I are here on a little walk to a bird sanctuary area here on the Fajã, and we are enjoying ourselves immensely.
That's the understatement of the year.
Wouldn't you say, John?
- It's stunning.
Yeah.
- It's stunning.
Not too crowded down here.
I mean, there are tourists here, and they should be.
This is the place, if you're a tourist you wanna come.
If you're gonna come here, if you're gonna come to the Azores, if you're gonna come to São Jorge, I recommend you come to this spot and then make sure you give yourself a couple hours to just be here.
Don't tag it.
This is not a place you wanna come, tag it, take a couple pictures and leave.
You wanna get into this 'cause this is a very special place.
There's not a lot of this going on on earth where you have these sea cliffs that have slipped into the ocean, have reestablished themselves into their own thriving ecosystems, and you can come and just be here.
Light's changing right now, clouds are blowing across.
We're getting this great dance of light and shadow.
It's just awesome.
Bring your camera too, by the way.
Just when we think São Jorge can't surprise us any further, we find a small stand tucked beside the parking area.
It's tap gleaming in the fading light, ice cold super bock on draft.
The Azores' local brew waits like a quiet reward for a day well spent.
With trail dust still on our boots and camera batteries nearly drained, we sit back and let the moment settle in.
The Atlantic sparkles just beyond us, and for a few minutes, time loosens its grip.
Well, cheers to another cool adventure with my buddies.
Right now, ice cold super bock will get us back.
- [Man] I'll get you a beer- - On the road although that sounds pretty bad.
(man laughs) I can't.
Cut.
- [Man] We only have one about every six hours.
- Yeah.
Yeah, a couple of cool beers.
Luckily, John's driving.
He's not drinking, so we'll be okay.
Cheers.
Our mission today has been a bold one to capture the island from end to end, tracing its spine from sunrise to sunset, and now as golden light spills over the western edge of São Jorge it feels like we've done just that.
Almost.
(somber music) With light slipping fast, we push onward searching for one more high vantage point.
One more place to let the camera finish the sentence we've been writing all day.
That's when we stumble onto something unexpected.
A forest park, quiet, enclosed by stone walls and green pastures.
Like so many, we've passed, it entirely different.
Inside the landscape shifts, again, lush sculpted groves, stretch out beneath towering trees, ferns and wildflowers, tangle across walking paths.
There's an almost enchanted feel to this place as if the island is showing us one last secret before the curtain falls on the day.
It's a soft place, a quiet one.
And as we wander through its shaded trails, we find ourselves once again overcome by the diversity of this island's beauty.
Every step feels like a thank you from São Jorge.
(dramatic music) The next morning brings a familiar rhythm, bags packed, gear stowed, and the subtle weight of the trips in beginning to settle in.
We make the short hot back to Terceira for one final day of exploring before our flight home.
There are still a few places calling to us, unfinished chapters in our Azorian story, chief among them, a winding drive to the top of Serra de Santa Bárbara, Terceira's highest point.
As we rise, the landscape changes with every mile.
Climbing from farmland to thick forest, to volcanic summit.
From the top, the island unfolds beneath us like a living map.
The Atlantic stretches beyond every horizon, and from above with the drone, we get a glimpse into the island's origins, an ancient caldera, jungle ponds, nestled in its rim and the raw volcanic bones that built this land.
But time is chasing us now.
And there's room for just one more stop.
A tip from a couple of locals sends us inland toward the island's quiet, middle down a narrow lane, and past a patchwork of stone fences, we find it.
Again, something unexpected and entirely delightful.
A small working donkey farm.
I didn't know places like this existed.
I didn't know you could milk a donkey, but that's exactly what we're going to learn how to do.
Thanks to our donkey dairy guide, Roberto.
- Because milk of donkey's, 98% similar to human.
- No kidding.
- They use that for the babies.
- That's crazy.
I guess we're gonna get into this, but is it similar to dairy cow?
- I have the pasteurized milk for you to try.
- Okay, you do.
- I hope you will like it.
- I'm gonna try it.
And John wants to try it too.
The camera guy right behind you, he's really thirsty for some donkey milk.
It turns out this little farm in the middle of Terceira is doing something pretty remarkable.
The donkey milk produced here is pasteurized, dried and shipped all over the world.
Used in everything from specialty soaps to high-end skincare products.
Who knew?
Oh, that's awesome.
Robert and his team have embraced modern milking technology to keep up with demand.
But in the spirit of honoring island traditions, I decide to go old school.
Oh man, that's, I don't think he's liking what I'm doing here.
She's, oh God, it all over my shoe.
God, okay.
There it is.
Yep.
- Professional.
- Let's just say milking a donkey by hand is not as easy as it looks.
And while I may not be giving up my day job anytime soon, it's another one of those unexpected moments that makes the trip unforgettable.
Because out here, even the most ordinary things come with a twist of the extraordinary.
Oh, here we go.
We're trying some donkey.
And now, so this has been pasteurized.
- Yes.
- All right.
Good.
- Yes, sir.
- Looks almost like regular milk, maybe a little bit different color.
(man speaking in foreign language) Salute.
- Salute.
- It is delicious.
- It's nothing compared.
- It's nothing like it.
It's nothing like cow's milk.
- It's very good for your health.
So.
- It's got a mild sweetness to it.
There's no sourness to it at all.
- Kind of water.
- Yeah.
Oh, that's, I'm blown away.
- [Man] The grass.
- I'm blown away at how good that is.
Alfons is helping us out here.
Nice.
- Good pour.
- Good Pour Alfons.
- Oh, thank you.
(indistinct) - Yeah, you can tell it's (indistinct).
Cheers.
- [Man] Let's see what you guys think here.
Donkey milk in the Azores, guys.
It's good.
(laughs) - Oh my gosh.
- It's really good.
- Yeah.
- It's different.
Yeah.
- [Man] Well, yeah, it's different, but- - [Man] It's halfway to a white Russian.
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
That is sweet and... - Yep.
Okay, donkey milk.
We're sold.
(laughs) (somber music) As our time in the Azores comes to an end, it's hard to not feel like we've only scratched the surface.
(somber music) These islands carved by fire, shaped by ocean, softened by time, hold something rare.
A sense of place that feels wild and untouched.
Where tradition lives side by side with discovery and where beauty doesn't just ask for attention, it just quietly surrounds you.
Oh, that one.
Really?
You gotta, that one loves you, buddy.
From the high cliffs of São Jorge to the volcanic heights of Terceira, this journey has reminded us why we travel in the first place.
- Beautiful.
- Not just to see new places, but to feel them, to be humbled by their power, to be surprised by their charms, and to let the lens do what it does best.
Capture not just what's in front of us, but what lives in the moments between.
Because in the Azores, the landscape doesn't just take your breath away, it gives it back one peaceful frame at a time.
(somber music) - [Narrator] Production funding for "Outside Beyond The Lens" provided by, Visit Fresno County, home to unique attractions.
California's fifth largest city and easy access to three nearby national parks.
By Advanced Beverage company.
Serving Bakersfield and Kern County for over 50 years.
By Hedricks Chevrolet.
- We are proud to support the spirit of travel in each of us.
Every journey has a first step.
Adventures start here.
- [Narrator] By Hodge's Electric Inc. Over five decades of delivering innovative solutions for residential, agricultural, and battery storage systems.
By the Penn Star Group.
Promoting opportunity and growth for the future.
By central California's Valley Children's Healthcare, futures worth fighting for.
By A-Plus Signs, we never stop innovating for you.
And by Valley Air Conditioning and Repair.
Family owned and trusted for over 50 years.
Proud to support public television and the wonders of travel.
(upbeat music)
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Outside Beyond the Lens is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television